Photographing alligators in the wild isn’t difficult – if you know where to look. Sporting powerful jaws, fierce protruding teeth, penetrating eyes, and an intricate pattern of rugged scales, they cut quite a compelling image through a lens. Besides, it’s just plain cool to hang out with creatures whose prehistoric relatives once roamed the planet during the age of dinosaurs.
Fortunately, to experience these not-so-gentle giants close-up in nature, an expedition to the Florida Everglades or Georgia’s Okefenokee Swamp is not required. Eufaula National Wildlife Refuge is a short 90-minute drive from Montgomery on the Alabama/Georgia state line and is, supposedly, a reliable destination for reptile watchers. But would any make an appearance during our recent early spring visit?
Established just over 60 years ago and covering more than 11,000 acres, the refuge is home to Lake Eufaula (the Walter F. George Reservoir) and a sanctuary for migratory birds. It’s one of more than 570 National Wildlife Refuges across the country, with just 11 located in Alabama. While there are several walking areas at the Eufaula Refuge, it’s most conveniently explored via the scenic 7-mile wildlife drive that includes opportunities for stretching your legs along the way. The unpaved road was narrow but appeared well maintained during our visit when we encountered no other people except a lone fisherman drifting across the lake in his small dinghy. This solitude enhanced the peaceful surroundings.
Less than a mile into the drive, our first stop was the Upland Viewing Platform, built in 1997. This small, covered structure is several hundred feet from the parking area and offers sweeping views of open fields with plenty of birding opportunities depending on the time of day and season. Fixed observation binoculars are available for visitors, but bring your own if you plan to search for the tree-bound songbirds whose tapestry of melodies drift across the plains.
Another mile or so down the road, we arrived at the Observation Tower that overlooks a wetland habitat. Omnipresent egrets swept across the water, but, alas, no alligators were visible.
As we continued, a large stretch of wetlands soon appeared with plenty of feathered residents but still no alligator sightings. A road to the right crossed over a narrow levee separating two large bodies of water, so we turned toward it and within a few feet – success!
Half a dozen alligators, 4 – 5 feet in length, lay at the road’s edge, basking in the late morning sun. As we inched further, a couple slipped into the water while the rest remained eerily motionless and completely uninterested in us. Another dozen or so glided effortlessly through the murky waters on either side. Continuing cautiously along the road with the windows down, occasional splashes signaled more animals taking the plunge from the banks while others rested peacefully on partially submerged tree trunks and rocks. With the camera shutter’s clicking, our visit had indeed proved successful.
More than a century ago, settlers in the area cleared the old-growth forests that once provided vital habitat for local and migratory birds. However, thanks to community efforts and support from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, the land was restored, and water levels were carefully maintained for wildlife. Today, visitors to the Eufaula National Wildlife Refuge may observe some of the more than 100 varieties of waterfowl, raptors, and songbirds – and, perhaps, even the occasional gator or two.
Nick Thomas teaches at Auburn University at Montgomery in Alabama and has written features, columns, and interviews for many newspapers and magazines. His hiking column describes short trails, hikes, and walks from around the country that seniors might enjoy while traveling. See www.ItsAWonderfulHike.com.